P.S.

it was kindly pointed out that i didn't say what happened to marlene at the volcano, after she went back down and i left her. well, we were all at the top looking at the lava and all of a sudden i hear her voice. so i go towards this person who said my name and it's Marlene! she went back down to the bottom, got on a horse taxi, and rode up to the top! along the way we had passed several horses with men trying to "sell" the ride up, but we all passed them up (i kept thinking i should get on one and forget killing myself just for pride, but didn't). it never occurred to me that Marlene would ride a horse up. but was so glad she did for her benefit. she got to see the lava in person and i took her picture for her. :-) we walked down together, holding up the rear of the line.

i also meant to say that in America we would have had to sign waivers saying the tour group/guide is not responsible if we should die on this adventure. no way would any guide in the States traverse you over lava rocks that could seriously injure or kill you, in the dark, with only a little flashlight (but only if you brought one yourself), while it's raining. and these people, the Guatemalans, didn't seem to be concerned at all! absolutely amazing.

P.S. Marlene's name is really Merlene. oops. :-)